Aftermarket Blackbird Auger

[TBK]

Would anyone be interested in an aftermarket Blackbird auger?  Some of you know I designed and built some several years ago.  I recently made some more for some of my projects.  They seem to feed really well and are a drop-in replacement. 

TBK 

[Parellax]

I'm interested. How bout a trade for one of my magnetic auger shafts. Mine work with no air shots up to about 3.2K with steel. I know exactly why they drop off in performance after that. I just don't have the machinery to build what is needed. I'd love to trade notes. We could come up with an auger that works great for steel, and lead.

[TBK]

I think my auger works pretty well and will feed at about any speed you might care to try.  I'll have to try it at 4K, but I don't think the auger itself will be any kind of a limitation.

I have everything set up to make augers, and have another iteration that may be what you are looking for.

I also have put some magnets in my auger and will let you know how that works and if there are any benefits with the magnets in there.  I thought the internal bore for the magnets would weaken it too much, but there is still enough wall thickness that it doesn't appear to matter. 

The cycle time is so short at 4K rpm.  Are you still using the stock valve spring in the mag head?

TBK

[Parellax]

Yes. That's the only spring I didn't change in the firing, and feeding. If I were to go further I would try a weaker valve spring, and let the air pressure do more of the work for the return. You will find when you drop below around 20 V the motor draws a ton of current fighting the poundage necessary to force the bb's into firing position. This draws power from the solenoid causing a burst, and then the counter continues to run until you release the trigger. This is what was happening when I thought there was a problem with the firmware.

The motor you, and Cam came up with is good for 3K with a magnetic auger at 100% with a tighter clutch, and no bb shaker. I did many tests to get it to 4K without success. I'm not saying it's not possible. I just can't definitively say with the limited air I had. You will still have the same problem of the motor overdrawing current with your motor, but exasperated. This is where a real slider switch would come in handy to bridge the jumper for a full range gun.

I would love to try one of your augers, and give you a report. That spring bullshit really needs to go.

[TBK]

I have never been a fan of the spring, so I did my own thing.  It is a neat way of moving things.  I grew up in a rural farm area, and my dad designed farm equipment, so I have been familiar with augers moving things for 40+ years!

FYI, I just put magnets in there to see if it was even possible for all you experimenters out there.  I am just wondering if anyone is interested in a non-spring type auger.  I am still working on a different non-shaker design.

Yes. That's the only spring I didn't change in the firing, and feeding. If I were to go further I would try a weaker valve spring, and let the air pressure do more of the work for the return. You will find when you drop below around 20 V the motor draws a ton of current fighting the poundage necessary to force the bb's into firing position. This draws power from the solenoid causing a burst, and then the counter continues to run until you release the trigger. This is what was happening when I thought there was a problem with the firmware.

The motor you, and Cam came up with is good for 3K with a magnetic auger at 100% with a tighter clutch, and no bb shaker. I did many tests to get it to 4K without success. I'm not saying it's not possible. I just can't definitively say with the limited air I had. You will still have the same problem of the motor overdrawing current with your motor, but exasperated. This is where a real slider switch would come in handy to bridge the jumper for a full range gun.

I would love to try one of your augers, and give you a report. That spring bullshit really needs to go.

[Parellax]

I think a plastic auger would be great for shooting lead. I have been mulling over buying some for a few years. Maybe it's time I did. I have known about this link for a couple of years. I probably should have shared it back then, but I really wasn't interested in shooting it at the time. Does anyone here have any experience with this seller? I wonder if it will bite the threads on a Jim C. barrel.

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Nickel-Plated-lead-shot-BB-45mm177-11lbs/productinfo/NP2B/

[TBK]

I have bought from them.  They ship fast.  My last order was that nickel plated shot last year.  That has been around for quite a while.  Dubb and Camracer were screening it make sure the consistency was good for best feeding.  I measured the last batch when I got it but don't have the results in front of me.  Dubb gave me some info on where/how it would jam in the blackbird mag with my auger.

Has anyone gauged the ID of the JimC barrel?  I will measure some more of the shot and we can compare.

TBK

[camracer]

That is in fact the same lead DUBB and I have been using for a handfull of years. It needs to be screened as it was inconsistent in size and roundness. You have to keep in mind that this is meant for shotgun loads and NOT bb guns.
In my experience when screened, I find it excellent ammo to use in the 30 round original mags. It is actually all I use in them for rodent control.
Don't expect it to be super accurate, but I don't complain at all. Especially when in "Full Psycho" mode (as DUBB likes to say ).

When screened, about 25% of what you buy will be waste. Not a problem if you reload shotshells, eh?

Over at the other forum, years ago we ended up buying Ballistic Products' stock up. Some members began to complain to BP that their product was inconsistent to the point where BP pulled the product from their catalog.
Well anyway, BP has had that back in stock for well over a year. It is worth a try, and it's cheap enough anyway.

I screen my NP lead shot to .180". JimC's barrel is also a .180" bore, (correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure). It will grab the rifling in the bore.

I am curious to see if BP's manufacturer has improved their quality control on this product.  If you get any, I would like to see a close-up photo of the product. I will soon have to buy more since my 50lb. supply is almost gone.

---Cam

BTW, here is a photo of the screen I made to sort the NP lead:

[camracer]

Here are some photos I posted long ago on the other forum showing what it looks like after you hit hard targets with the NP lead. The bottom photo is what some of the bad screened shot looked like back then.

[Parellax]

Thanks for all the info guys. Now I just have to try!

[Parellax]

OK. I bought a bag to try. What Doesn't go through the screen will not be wasted. I don't reload shotgun shells, but the stuff that is not up to muster will make excellent canister shot for flocks of Starlings:^) Now I'm going to have to buy a drill press just to make the screen lol!

Cam. I will post the pics when I receive it.

[TBK]

I didn't dump my whole bag to check, but the most recent stuff I got looks better than your photo of the waste you had.  I will have to whip up a screen like yours as well.

[camracer]

Someone asked me about making my screen once before. He didn't have the plexglass to make it. I suggested maybe a container like a large plastic margarine container with holes drilled in it... Use what you have. Just a thought.

[TBK]

Cam -

I saw your post confirming the BPI NPLS looks better now and you would not be screening it. 

Parellax- Did you still want to sell my augers?  I am trying to balance out my time and focus on the things I like to do and need to finish that can further the fun with air machineguns.  Also, check your PM about a new batch of augers.

TBK

[Parellax]

Absolutely! I know where you are coming from. I'm sure we can make something happen.