How to wire a balanced Lipo battery pack...

[camracer]

One thing I can see why that mosfet is overheating may be due to the way you wired the four post forward/reverse switch wire connector. I would try rewiring that the way it was originally meant to be connected to the switch (even though you will not use the reverse function). Try that and see what happens.

Also, more importantly, I wonder if the way you have wired the output of the MC directly to the battery contacts on Sergey's board may be overdrawing current through the MC to charge the capacitor on Sergey's board. Really, you should only be supplying output voltage from the MC to the motor. The heat sinks on the MC should not be necessary when controlling speed to such a tiny motor as in your magazine. If the motor is much larger, more current needs to flow and the mosfet will get much hotter creating the need for the heat sinks.

Those two things are different from the way I wired mine. I have no problems at all.

[Parellax]

I haven't connected the MC to the board in the gun yet. It worked fine outside of the gun though. I rewired the switch, and connected it everything back just as it came. I am still having the same problem. I think what may have happened is the internals of the switch may have been damaged during soldering. I can't think of any other reason the MC powers up in the off position. I will take the wires off of the switch, and connect them manually to see if that's the problem.

[Parellax]

One DC 9 to 30 V reversible motor controller for sale. Sold as is not working parts only no refunds. ARRRG!

[Parellax]

I'm going to give it another shot. There is something definitely wrong with my MC. It's most likely my fault, but whatever. It worked in the mock up so I will order another MC. It's not like I will break the bank or anything. To be continued...

[Parellax]

I ordered this one today so I will soon be able to determine if I can tear it up. It looks a little smaller, and only has one direction. Hopefully we will get along a little better.

http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452635919&sr=8-6&keywords=motor+speed+controller

[camracer]

Looks good. It can way over handle the Drozd motor, so again you will not need the heat sinks. I would remove them, and if you have to, rewire the large capacitor to lay on it's side. That should fit in the stock quite well enough.

Keep me informed with your progress!

[Parellax]

I had a lot of problems yesterday that I solved today. I fried the diode yesterday, and again this morning after breaking the spring on the power switch. I made a new spring from .22 music wire. I actually like it better than the factory spring. It's smoother, and quieter. Below the solenoid was where I wired the leads to the board wrong. I hot glued the connector in, and couldn't reach it with anything. I ran some hot water on it for a while, and was able to fish it out with yes a hook made from music wire. Double thanks TBK. I fixed the problem, and found room between the housing, and frame for another connection. Then I wired the balancer, and mounted it. It turned out super clean. I used tape for a guide, and removed the bulk of material with a ziz bit. From there I used an X-acto. Then I filed it with a micro file. After all of that I went ahead, and connected the batteries to the board to test everything. It's working.

My new MC should be here tomorrow. I'm not sure when the tac will be. I think I will mount the tac, and volt meter in a small project box on the side of the mag using a multi-pin connector so I can remove it easily.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160113_122705_zpsjtlkjhad.jpg~original

 

[Parellax]

Here is the power switch repair.

[camracer]

Glad you figured it out. Knew you would.

Good job!

[Parellax]

Thanks. The other MC came today, and we are getting along a lot better than the first one. It was bigger than I thought it was going to be so I took your advice. I removed the heat sinks, and relocated the large cap. Then I had to move one of the cells to get all six of them in there. To add some finishing touches I trimmed the skirt off the pot nob, and blacked it, and the balancer out with stove paint. I found that if I leave the power switch on, turn the pot all the way, and discharge the cap by pulling the trigger I can turn the pot all the way up without the motor loading. It's completely silent. Now on to the mag. Thanks again for the help!

[camracer]

No problem. Glad to help!

It came out great!

[Parellax]

I installed the six pin connector in the mag, and box yesterday. The connector holds the box in place very well, and the box can easily removed when not in use. Today I wired the motor.  All that's left is to cut the holes in the box, mount, and wire the displays. I'm going to cover the whole display side of the box with non glare acrylic. It will look really nice with a new barrel

[Parellax]

After burning another mosfet yesterday I realized why wires are color coded I was able to take one of the good 30 V mosfet's off of the first MC, and replace the 100 V mosfet I burned up yesterday with it. Then I figured the switch out, and wired it to cut power from the MC, and added a charging connection that connects to the input on the MC. It's funny how you don't exactly understand something that someone has told you until you realize you did exactly what they told you not to do. Here is a picture of the final circuit. I also finished my mag monitor mod. The link shows how it works. The jury is still out on weather, or not I will need a five digit display, It would be fun to play with though. 

https://youtu.be/kxjk6xJWcz4

[camracer]

Heh!! Isn't experimenting fun! It's good to keep a punching bag near by so you don't have the urge to throw your tools through the wall or window...

Very cool on the motor RPM display! This is going to be very useful for you when you experiment with bb ROF and motor speed efficiency.

Well done!

Only thing that I can tell you, and I said it before (long before you started all this) is that you should expect that as the motor speed increases, you will still get "air shots" to increase. Nature of this mag design is that bb's will get flung from the auger spring. To minimize this, keep the mag as full as possible. Weight of bb's in the reservoir will help keep bb's in the auger.
If you want to see a demonstration of this effect, put about 40 bb's in the hopper and look in there when you activate the mag motor.

Anyway, I look forward to your testing. Good luck!

---Cam

[Parellax]

Lol! Yes. Sometimes I make up my own swear words when the run of the mill ones just don't cut it. I know what you are talking about when the mag run's low. I have been putting off the magnetic auger project since the first one I made failed. It was just poorly constructed. Now that I have nothing else planned, and am just waiting I will get back to it. Shaving one of the nodes off of the gear like DUBB suggested  helped a bunch with air shots. I have been thinking about cutting a little off of the remaining one depending on the success of the magnetized auger. I'll let you know how it works.