Air Machinegun Forum
General Air Machinegun Discussion Category => Drozd and Blackbird Discussion => Topic started by: Parellax on December 16, 2015, 07:36:02 PM
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I found a good wiring diagram for for the popular five cell 18.5 V 18650 Lipo mod for Sergey's board. The other links show you examples of the pigtails, and a compatible charger.
What balancing does is it allows the batteries to be monitored while they are being charged, and adjusts to each cells needs accordingly during the charging process.
This has not been overlooked by the "Fun Buster's" however. I read that it's actually illegal to solder Lipo batteries. This is probably if you intend to sell them, but I really don't know so do at your own risk.
The real problem is the positive terminal on an 18650 is so close to it's negative side which is the housing itself. If you accidentally solder the gap you put the battery in a dead short. At the least you will ruin your battery. At worst the battery will explode.
There are a few different types of connecters so if you already have a balancing charger find out what kind of connector's it will accept. Also below is what I use by showing you a couple of random site's. If you are not familiar with this stuff please post your questions on the new forum after you have registered.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html (http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCS-5S1P-Balance-Charger-Silicon-Cable-Wire-JST-XH-Connector-Adapter-Plug-/221813732243?hash=item33a520f393:g:2eYAAOSw9N1Vkfws (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCS-5S1P-Balance-Charger-Silicon-Cable-Wire-JST-XH-Connector-Adapter-Plug-/221813732243?hash=item33a520f393:g:2eYAAOSw9N1Vkfws)
http://www.batteryjunction.com/tenergy-90263-tb6b-chgr.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vhpBL--7Cj5QnjTqcnInN4_L_SbLurwRbp_K0VlbtPRoCZ1fw_wcB (http://www.batteryjunction.com/tenergy-90263-tb6b-chgr.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vhpBL--7Cj5QnjTqcnInN4_L_SbLurwRbp_K0VlbtPRoCZ1fw_wcB)
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Good info, thanks.
I think I posted about that back on the old forum before somewhere. I saw that "scriptasylum" page and another like it before.
I even have photos of my 18650 pack stuffed inside my Blackbird that is set up for balanced charging.
I'll post it here If I can find it and if anyone is interested.
---Cam
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I was thinking of doing your battery stock mod just for the fun of it. I was thinking I would mount the balancing connector in the seam on the top of the bottom portion of the stock. That way I can plug a digital low voltage alarm into it, and it will be out of the way. Do you have a link the motor speed controller you used?
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Did you find my thread on how to do my stock mod on the other forum? If you did post a link here to that thread for others to see.
Here is the motor speed controller I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Unique-Goods-Adjustable-Reversible-reversing/dp/B0100KN9IY/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450889639&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=DC+12V-24V+5A+Motor+Speed+Control+Adjust+PWM+Controller-10000134 (http://www.amazon.com/Unique-Goods-Adjustable-Reversible-reversing/dp/B0100KN9IY/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450889639&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=DC+12V-24V+5A+Motor+Speed+Control+Adjust+PWM+Controller-10000134)
As an idea for you, rather than using an alarm, I would suggest you do what I did and wire in a LED display voltage monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltage-Voltmeter-Monitoring/dp/B00C58JGE6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1450890177&sr=8-8&keywords=mini+led+display+voltage+monitor (http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Voltage-Voltmeter-Monitoring/dp/B00C58JGE6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1450890177&sr=8-8&keywords=mini+led+display+voltage+monitor)
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BTW, I removed the big aluminum heat sink on the controller to make it fit inside the stock easier. You don't need it anyway.
Also, I wired in a momentary on switch to the LED display so it would not stay on all the time, just when you push the switch. You can see me pushing the switch for the display in the photo, and where I put the adjustment knob for the speed controller:
(http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae9/camracer1/DrozdBlackbirdstock1_zps67d297d9.jpg) (http://s952.photobucket.com/user/camracer1/media/DrozdBlackbirdstock1_zps67d297d9.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the links. I was thinking about doing that in conjunction with the low voltage alarm. I have been using them, and they give you a better idea about where your cells are under a draw. Sergey found them some time ago when the debate of how to accurately measure battery drain under a load in a pulsing system was going on. Maybe you saw my video a while back. I didn't run the batteries to my set low voltage alarm, but when it goes off you will definitely hear it without looking at it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBaGe9_Vr4k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBaGe9_Vr4k)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-8003-voltagemonitor.html (http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-8003-voltagemonitor.html)
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Yeah, I have seen those battery checkers.
Does the display stay on all the time?? If so, you could wire in a momentary switch if you want.
It is nice you can choose to disable the alarm, if you want to.
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Yes. They stay on, and cycle through each cell's voltage. Then they give you the current voltage of the entire pack. You can program them to the desired low voltage you want the alarm to sound. I bought a voltage controller from the link you posted. I have some voltage monitor displays I bought a few years ago when I was on the same path you were without knowing. Several of them didn't work. They were super cheap from China. I will have to see if I have one that works.
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My motor speed controller came today. I got to playing around with it. Very cool! I couldn't see a way to install it in the stock with five 18650's without the stock being closed all the way though (even with the heat sink removed). I can easily fit six 14500's in there though, but then it's kind of like, "What's the point?" So it's a toss up. I can wire six 14500's in the stock being able to monitor them digitally, or I can just keep using them in the battery compartment periodically testing them in the gun with it on using a volt meter on the exposed terminals with the battery compartment door open. The only downside to using the compartment is if the batteries are damaged they can swell, and be a bitch to get out. I recommend anyone using the 14500's in their battery compartment to lube the sides of the batteries lightly with silicone oil.
Why not? I think I will try this configuration. I have everything I need except the balancing connector. Maybe I will wire a switch so I can utilize the battery compartment for auxiliary power when the alarm sounds.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20151229_153757_zpsopvd3jyw.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20151229_153757_zpsopvd3jyw.jpg.html)
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Yeah, it is a tight fit in the stock. You can do what I did and expand the stock for more room if you want.
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Here's a link to my how-to thread on the other forum. I originally expanded the stock to fit a 13 c.i. HPA tank. Lots of room left over.
http://bb.bbboy.net/straferbbmachinegunownersgroup-viewthread?forum=10&thread=3165&postnum=30 (http://bb.bbboy.net/straferbbmachinegunownersgroup-viewthread?forum=10&thread=3165&postnum=30)
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Thanks for the link. I missed that one. I tried searching the old forum last night, and it looks like the search function doesn't work at all anymore. I like the high drain batteries DUBB pointed out. Sorry for the gigantic pic. I thought I was shooting a lower resolution. Here is my circuit excluding the bypass switch for auxiliary power.
https://youtu.be/acsVBMEGI0Q (https://youtu.be/acsVBMEGI0Q)
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Yup. That's a good demo of how it works.
You'll be able to precisely experiment with bb feed rates once it is installed.
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One of my customers suggested I add a tachometer so I found this to throw in the mix. I figure it can tell me when the clutch is slipping as well as give me good rpm data while the gun is firing. I think I will mount it, and the volt meter on the top rail somehow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-7-30V-Power-Digital-Speedometer-Tachograph-Tachometer-Yellow-LED-Display-/351295189450?hash=item51cad331ca:g:-0YAAOSwEK9TxvBy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-7-30V-Power-Digital-Speedometer-Tachograph-Tachometer-Yellow-LED-Display-/351295189450?hash=item51cad331ca:g:-0YAAOSwEK9TxvBy)
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Has anyone tried using the round cell holders that hold three batteries? I was going to put two of those in a tube.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/414UANmUtRL.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Parallel-Connection-Holder-Battery/dp/B00K86S3QE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451625103&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+holder+for+18650
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One of my customers suggested I add a tachometer so I found this to throw in the mix. I figure it can tell me when the clutch is slipping as well as give me good rpm data while the gun is firing. I think I will mount it, and the volt meter on the top rail somehow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-7-30V-Power-Digital-Speedometer-Tachograph-Tachometer-Yellow-LED-Display-/351295189450?hash=item51cad331ca:g:-0YAAOSwEK9TxvBy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-7-30V-Power-Digital-Speedometer-Tachograph-Tachometer-Yellow-LED-Display-/351295189450?hash=item51cad331ca:g:-0YAAOSwEK9TxvBy)
Cool idea!
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Has anyone tried using the round cell holders that hold three batteries? I was going to put two of those in a tube.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/414UANmUtRL.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Parallel-Connection-Holder-Battery/dp/B00K86S3QE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451625103&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+holder+for+18650
Do you remember my 5 cell 18650 battery holder I made years back?? Or how about Drozdandconfused's "dynamite stick holder?
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I'm pretty sure each holder would only yield 4.2 volts with the combined capacity of the batteries. I tried to find some round holders that are wired in series. No luck so far.
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You can hot glue the single cell holder to the back of a double cell holder. This will also save some space, and money.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-Battery-Case-Box-Holder-For-2x-18650-Batteries-Cell-In-Parallel-For-Arduino-/251562892381?hash=item3a92511c5d:g:tR0AAOSwhh5ToWss (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-Battery-Case-Box-Holder-For-2x-18650-Batteries-Cell-In-Parallel-For-Arduino-/251562892381?hash=item3a92511c5d:g:tR0AAOSwhh5ToWss)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hot-5Pcs-Battery-Case-Box-Holder-for-18650-Li-ion-Batteries-Cell-3-7V-/252091236855?hash=item3ab1cf01f7:g:~h8AAOSw9r1V9pGb (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hot-5Pcs-Battery-Case-Box-Holder-for-18650-Li-ion-Batteries-Cell-3-7V-/252091236855?hash=item3ab1cf01f7:g:~h8AAOSw9r1V9pGb)
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Here is what you are looking for, but I can't seem to find a source for spares. Note how it is wired in series. You might try contacting the company. This is out of an UltraFire RL-2088 flashlight.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160101_164141_zpsuuybv15n.jpg~original)
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I ordered a small project box that should hold the volt meter, tac. my current idea is to have a connecting port in the left side of the housing that I can plug the box into when I need to know something. Think of it as a diagnostic tool. I will be able to simply unplug it, and still have full use of the gun with the low voltage alarm functioning, and auxiliary power in the battery compartment.
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I'm pretty sure each holder would only yield 4.2 volts with the combined capacity of the batteries. I tried to find some round holders that are wired in series. No luck so far.
Why not just re-wire it?
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Hey Cam. Were you able to somehow use the reverse function of the motor controller. I can't see how it can be wired without reversing polarity to the board. Right now I have the function bypassed, and was thinking of using the dead side of the switch in place of your momentary mag motor switch because I already installed it. Also even when the switch is off the board is still drawing power. There is an LED that will not turn off unless the batteries are disconnected.
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Hey Cam. Were you able to somehow use the reverse function of the motor controller. I can't see how it can be wired without reversing polarity to the board. Right now I have the function bypassed, and was thinking of using the dead side of the switch in place of your momentary mag motor switch because I already installed it. Also even when the switch is off the board is still drawing power. There is an LED that will not turn off unless the batteries are disconnected.
The motor controller should only swap polarity on the output, not the input when the forward/reverse switch is switched.
My controller's LED's go out after power is cut. If yours is staying lit, it may be because the circuit board's capacitor is still charged.
Try pulling the trigger after you switch off your gun. That should discharge the capacitor and the controller's LED should go out.
If not, you may have wired the controller incorrectly.
I can help you figure it out.
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Here is a short video about what I have done so far.
https://youtu.be/pEiKZom7B00 (https://youtu.be/pEiKZom7B00)
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First, why do you have six batteries in there?? That will give you over 25v. Sergey's board can handle 24v. At least that is the limit for mine. Did Sergey change something on your newer board??
You do have the motor controller wired wrong. (I'll call it MC for short)
The four post wire connector on the MC should NOT have battery voltage going into it!! That is for connecting the forward/reverse switch. Your switch that came with the MC should have four pins....?? Two of those go to what you labeled post 1 & 2, the others to 3 & 4. I cannot remember if 1 & 2 are forward or reverse or if 3 & 4 are, but it doesn't matter, as a flip of the switch will just switch the motor direction.
First you need to run power wires from your batteries directly to the battery contacts on Sergey's circuit board. Next run wires back from the output side of the power switch on Sergey's board and connect that to the power input on the MC. There is the dual post connector that has the + & - printed next to it on the MC circuit board. This will complete the power circuit so that when you turn on the gun's power switch, it will then and only then power the MC.
Next you need to run wires from the MC's +/- output (this is the other two post wire connector opposite side of the board from the power connection posts) to the female power jack on the gun (where you plug in the magazine's wires). Also, you need to completely disconnect the circuit connection from the female jack on Sergeys board. You will be essentially bypassing Sergey's board and now use the MC to power/control the motor. Just be careful not to blob solder on Sergey's board where it shouldn't go!
Done!
Here are some photos of my set-up showing wiring/battery placement/location for control knob and voltage monitor.
The dark green wires (from old Christmas tree lights) are the outputs to the motor. The thin gray and black wires (kind of hard to see) are power to the MC. The multi-color ribbon wires are for my balancing charger connector (which you cannot see buried under that mess of wires). I suppose I will make an access port on the stock at some point if I feel like it.
You can see that I removed the heat sinks on the MC and carefully bent the chips flatter to the circuit board. put some electrical tape where you need to, if you need to, to prevent a short circuit.
Hope this is clear enough for you to follow!
---Cam
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More photos of my connection points:
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I am running six cells because fully charged they measure 24.09 V. I know this is above the capacitors rating of 25 V so I am taking a chance. The 14500's are high drain so they are only above the capacity of the capacitor for a short period of time. Sometimes I let them sit for a few days after I charge them to let them drop to, or below 24 V.
I have my batteries connected to the +, and - terminals on the MC, and the opposite side is running to the Dean's connector hot glued into the stock where it plugs into the back of the frame. I don't have the batteries running directly to the switch connector. I just bypassed one motor direction with a jumper on the four pin connector, and disconnected the unneeded wires from the switch. Because I want to run directly to the board I didn't want to accidentally reverse polarity, and burn up the board.
I took a board, and wired the whole circuit including the mag outside of the stock first, and it worked fine. I can also drop the fully charged voltage of the cells with the MC below the capacitors limit this way. I didn't have any problems until I removed the wires from the unwanted side of the switch. Maybe that somehow grounds the component that got smoking hot. I really don't care about reversing the motor because I have only had one jam over the years, and I still would have had to take the mag apart to get to it.
I am mainly doing this to see what kind of rpm to voltage the motor puts out under different voltages, and psi's. The only halfway suitable tac I could find goes to 9,999 rpm, but maybe I can project a curve from my results. If I am missing something please let me know. Here is the circuit I tested before I wired it in the stock.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160106_141355_zpshgxpah2c.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160106_141355_zpshgxpah2c.jpg.html)
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When you say, "I didn't want to accidentally reverse polarity, and burn up the board", I assume you are talking about Sergey's board. Sergey's circuit board is protected against accidental reversal of polarity. And, if you connect the MC the way I told you, even if you reversed the motor, it will ONLY affect the motor, not the whole of Sergey's circuit board.
Also, I agree with you about only needing the forward control. The switch is unnecessary. I never use the reverse function.
You said: " I can also drop the fully charged voltage of the cells with the MC below the capacitors limit this way."
Yes, but you are also limiting voltage to the whole of Sergey's board the way you have that configured. What is the point of using five or six batteries if you limit the voltage to the Sergey board? You need that voltage as high as possible for the solenoid, right?
I really suggest you wire it the way I told you to.
Anyway, do what you want, it's fun to experiment.
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This is kind of one of those killing time projects while I wait on the new barrel, and modular components. Sure Sergey's Board has reverse polarity protection, but reversing the polarity will render it inoperable until it is repaired. I really try to stress this with my customers. This happened to the first SB-4K twice, and not by me either although I have done it before.
The point of dropping the voltage to the board while running six 14500's is to initially keep it below 24 V. After the batteries drain down a little it can be ramped back up providing more voltage than five cells can supply. I will need to do some tests to see if the higher voltage is more reliable at 2K.
Either way I am stuck if I can't figure out why the component on the board is overheating. As always I really appreciate the help.
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One thing I can see why that mosfet is overheating may be due to the way you wired the four post forward/reverse switch wire connector. I would try rewiring that the way it was originally meant to be connected to the switch (even though you will not use the reverse function). Try that and see what happens.
Also, more importantly, I wonder if the way you have wired the output of the MC directly to the battery contacts on Sergey's board may be overdrawing current through the MC to charge the capacitor on Sergey's board. Really, you should only be supplying output voltage from the MC to the motor. The heat sinks on the MC should not be necessary when controlling speed to such a tiny motor as in your magazine. If the motor is much larger, more current needs to flow and the mosfet will get much hotter creating the need for the heat sinks.
Those two things are different from the way I wired mine. I have no problems at all.
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I haven't connected the MC to the board in the gun yet. It worked fine outside of the gun though. I rewired the switch, and connected it everything back just as it came. I am still having the same problem. I think what may have happened is the internals of the switch may have been damaged during soldering. I can't think of any other reason the MC powers up in the off position. I will take the wires off of the switch, and connect them manually to see if that's the problem.
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One DC 9 to 30 V reversible motor controller for sale. Sold as is not working parts only no refunds. ARRRG!
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I'm going to give it another shot. There is something definitely wrong with my MC. It's most likely my fault, but whatever. It worked in the mock up so I will order another MC. It's not like I will break the bank or anything. To be continued...
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I ordered this one today so I will soon be able to determine if I can tear it up. It looks a little smaller, and only has one direction. Hopefully we will get along a little better.
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452635919&sr=8-6&keywords=motor+speed+controller (http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1452635919&sr=8-6&keywords=motor+speed+controller)
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Looks good. It can way over handle the Drozd motor, so again you will not need the heat sinks. I would remove them, and if you have to, rewire the large capacitor to lay on it's side. That should fit in the stock quite well enough.
Keep me informed with your progress!
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I had a lot of problems yesterday that I solved today. I fried the diode yesterday, and again this morning after breaking the spring on the power switch. I made a new spring from .22 music wire. I actually like it better than the factory spring. It's smoother, and quieter. Below the solenoid was where I wired the leads to the board wrong. I hot glued the connector in, and couldn't reach it with anything. I ran some hot water on it for a while, and was able to fish it out with yes a hook made from music wire. Double thanks TBK. I fixed the problem, and found room between the housing, and frame for another connection. Then I wired the balancer, and mounted it. It turned out super clean. I used tape for a guide, and removed the bulk of material with a ziz bit. From there I used an X-acto. Then I filed it with a micro file. After all of that I went ahead, and connected the batteries to the board to test everything. It's working.
My new MC should be here tomorrow. I'm not sure when the tac will be. I think I will mount the tac, and volt meter in a small project box on the side of the mag using a multi-pin connector so I can remove it easily.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160113_122705_zpsjtlkjhad.jpg~original
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160113_132233_zpsulcz8s0d.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160113_132233_zpsulcz8s0d.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160113_153438_zpsmq9bmyyk.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160113_153438_zpsmq9bmyyk.jpg.html)
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Here is the power switch repair.
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160113_122705_zpsjtlkjhad.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160113_122705_zpsjtlkjhad.jpg.html)
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Glad you figured it out. Knew you would.
Good job!
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Thanks. The other MC came today, and we are getting along a lot better than the first one. It was bigger than I thought it was going to be so I took your advice. I removed the heat sinks, and relocated the large cap. Then I had to move one of the cells to get all six of them in there. To add some finishing touches I trimmed the skirt off the pot nob, and blacked it, and the balancer out with stove paint. I found that if I leave the power switch on, turn the pot all the way, and discharge the cap by pulling the trigger I can turn the pot all the way up without the motor loading. It's completely silent. Now on to the mag. Thanks again for the help!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160114_161700_zpsm08dlduv.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160114_161700_zpsm08dlduv.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160114_173501_zpsitczzc2q.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160114_173501_zpsitczzc2q.jpg.html)
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No problem. Glad to help!
It came out great!
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I installed the six pin connector in the mag, and box yesterday. The connector holds the box in place very well, and the box can easily removed when not in use. Today I wired the motor. All that's left is to cut the holes in the box, mount, and wire the displays. I'm going to cover the whole display side of the box with non glare acrylic. It will look really nice with a new barrel :)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160116_111109_zpsoboyn4so.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160116_111109_zpsoboyn4so.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160116_111736_zps3felarbq.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160116_111736_zps3felarbq.jpg.html)
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After burning another mosfet yesterday I realized why wires are color coded :) I was able to take one of the good 30 V mosfet's off of the first MC, and replace the 100 V mosfet I burned up yesterday with it. Then I figured the switch out, and wired it to cut power from the MC, and added a charging connection that connects to the input on the MC. It's funny how you don't exactly understand something that someone has told you until you realize you did exactly what they told you not to do. Here is a picture of the final circuit. I also finished my mag monitor mod. The link shows how it works. The jury is still out on weather, or not I will need a five digit display, It would be fun to play with though.
https://youtu.be/kxjk6xJWcz4 (https://youtu.be/kxjk6xJWcz4)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll27/masondawson2/20160119_131903_zps5ns4hylg.jpg~original) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/masondawson2/media/20160119_131903_zps5ns4hylg.jpg.html)
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Heh!! Isn't experimenting fun! It's good to keep a punching bag near by so you don't have the urge to throw your tools through the wall or window...
Very cool on the motor RPM display! This is going to be very useful for you when you experiment with bb ROF and motor speed efficiency.
Well done!
Only thing that I can tell you, and I said it before (long before you started all this) is that you should expect that as the motor speed increases, you will still get "air shots" to increase. Nature of this mag design is that bb's will get flung from the auger spring. To minimize this, keep the mag as full as possible. Weight of bb's in the reservoir will help keep bb's in the auger.
If you want to see a demonstration of this effect, put about 40 bb's in the hopper and look in there when you activate the mag motor.
Anyway, I look forward to your testing. Good luck!
---Cam
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Lol! Yes. Sometimes I make up my own swear words when the run of the mill ones just don't cut it. I know what you are talking about when the mag run's low. I have been putting off the magnetic auger project since the first one I made failed. It was just poorly constructed. Now that I have nothing else planned, and am just waiting I will get back to it. Shaving one of the nodes off of the gear like DUBB suggested helped a bunch with air shots. I have been thinking about cutting a little off of the remaining one depending on the success of the magnetized auger. I'll let you know how it works.
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Before I loose this idea I want to get it down. Remember a while back when I asked if anyone had cut the center divider out of the mag? Maybe the agitator could have a second tier to it that fills below as a secondary reservoir that inhibits popcorning.
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I am way behind, but catching up! Camracer, I did not remember your cylindrical battery holder, but do remember the dynamite stick. Parrellax - the cell holder you showed is already wired in series? I want to do something like that. I really like the battery in the stock stuff you guys have done!
I agree with the tier of BBs. I think that is a must. I even use a series of several "layers" to keep the BBs from putting too much weight around the auger and shaker in my mags.
000000
000000000000000
-----------00000000
0000000000
0000000000000
00000-------------
00000000000
----------00000000
000000000
===AUGER-AUGER
I am not sure if that will make sense, but the circles are bbs, the lines are the baffles, and the auger is at the bottom.
TBK
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Need to start thinking outside the "box" that is creating the limitations in this auger feed system.
There are other ways to feed bb's with a motor.
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I've said it before, and I will say it again. The mag needs a follower if it is to be auger driven. I'm still pursuing the magnetic auger, but I really believe the bb's need to be shoved in there. I have already proved we can shoot 4K with a spring fed mag. People are screaming for a high cap non-electric mag.
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Yes. It is wired in series.
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Camracer - Roger that. I have never been very confined in my thinking and creativity!!
Parellax - what do you mean by a follower? Do you mean an arm with a roller like in airsoft mags to push the ammo into the wheel? And, nice job on the homemade switch spring. The switch configuration isn't one of my favorite things on the Drozd.
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It was something I was thinking about doing if the new auger didn't work. I know there has been concern in the past about weight on the BB auger. If that's an issue I don't know how useful the idea would be. It's basically putting a follower that pushes bb's down on the auger. Since the magnetic auger works so well I have abandoned the idea at least for the BB.
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I was just reviewing one of my videos. Looking back I was way off on a few basic points. I haven't decided what to do with the public video other than share my folly with an appropriate audio track on top with ya'll. Enjoy!
BTW. I have run into my first case of bb misalignment. It is not mine, but the barrel is locked up tighter than two dogs with the breech bushing. I may have to cut the barrel off at the frame to fix. This is new territory for me.
https://youtu.be/HnzoljhazZA (https://youtu.be/HnzoljhazZA)
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Sounds like your Bird was ready to fly! ;D
When I had one of my barrels locked on my breech nut back in the day, I clamped the frame and nut in a vise and I was lucky enough to break it loose using Vise Grips. After that came all the breech alignment mods we now have done. Only need to do that once to realize how important alignment is, eh?
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No kidding! I finally understand what ya'll have been preaching to me. The reason he sent it to me is because bb's kept getting stuck in the breech end of the barrel. I think it's where the bb's have been plowing up the inside of the barrel. I might have to cut it off at the frame, and send it back with one of my stock barrels. I saw the breech bushings appear to still be available at EAA. I tried to get him to get Ray's latch plate mod when he bought it from DrozdMax. O well. At least I finally get to experience this firsthand. Yay.